Toto Santos strikes me as a unique little spot of culture and creativity, nestled into the hills of Baja.
It’s a beautiful little community that expound upon a creativity brought here by the people looking for an escape so, maybe it would be categorized as escapist creativity.
The Pueblo itself is unique and enchanting, with most locals waving at everybody as they drive by. That welcoming nature , and lack of suspicion of “outsiders“ I’ve found to be more unique here than I have in other places. There was a level of suspicion of Americans and Canadians in Lo De Marcos that I found to be a little bit judgmental at times and maybe a smidge of condemnation when Mexicans looked at people coming into their towns and essentially taking over.
The entitlement of tourists and expats in some of these Mexican towns has certainly not gone and noticed for me and I’m sure that the locals feel it in many levels. So, if I could say anything, it would be “be nice“ and remember that you’re a guest in their country, no matter how long you’ve been here. Many of the restaurants and things to do in the area require some motive, transportation, and renting it locally doesn’t really seem to be an option.
Being a huge fan of beautiful cafes, Doce Cuerenta here was my first stop to check out the space and refuel my caffeiene addiction.
I then made my way to my hotel and promptly laid by the pool for a few hours, cherishing the ocean breeze and sun. I spent my first two nights at Cerritos surf camp down on Cerritos Beach. It’s a quaint little resort. Nestled into an evergreen in beach community about 20 minutes south of total Santos. Just stay here it is necessary to have a vehicle. I found that to be pretty much all of Todos Santos unless you stay right downtown.
Being keenly aware that I’m going to run out of sunsets on the Pacific Ocean very soon, I planned my first night at a restaurant called The Green Room, which was a good 15 minutes north of the Pueblo, both on paved and dirt roads. The dinner was excellent and the view for sunset was amazing. The crowd was a beautiful mix of both Mexicans and outsiders coming to enjoy the celebration of yet another wonderous day.
Waking up early is evidently my thing now so I made my way back to Doce Cuerenta and promptly overloaded on coffee. Now I know that two flat whites and two americanos is far past my limit of comfort.
If you’ve read much of my ramblings, you’ll know that I’ve been sober quite a long time now and always find AA wherever I go. It’s no different here, with a meeting right downtown four days per week. It’s a way for me to connect and ground into whatever town I’m visiting and a way to orient myself to a place.
After the meeting, I was invited to tacos with a man I’d met, a wonderful soul that’s been sober for 48 years with a plethora of great stories from around the world. I hope to be like him in another 25 years, welcoming and entertaining of those like myself that long for connection in a new place.
It’s funny how the days go by differently when I’m out of my routine… I had coffee early this morning and had to find a laundromat to wash some of my travel clothes. It’s now not even 9am and I wonder how I’ll spend the day?
I’ll likely ask for a late checkout before I head to my new Airbnb for the evening so I can lounge by the pool for a bit and catch my breath, so to speak.
Travel in new places has such a different sensation in the body for me, the chaos and movement is profound and a bit unsettling.
The experience of the desert in Todos Santos is so different than the jungles of Nayarit.
The ocean carries with it such an instinctual draw for me, I’m not sure why, it wasn’t something I was raised with and don’t need to be submerged into but listening to it brings such a calm.
I spent my last day at the El Faro Beach Club, under a fancy palapa, allowing my soul to take it the presence and beauty before I reluctantly head to the high desert.
To finally see the ending of the day, I journeyed to Hotel San Cristobal, an elegant and beautiful spot on a dirt road ending at the ocean.
The sunset that night will forever be etched into my mind as will the beauty of the village of “All Saints”.